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  #11  
Old 15th January 2015, 23:46
G-CPTN G-CPTN is offline  
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Looking good.
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  #12  
Old 26th January 2015, 19:38
mylesdw mylesdw is offline  
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Chassis in a nice blue gloss now
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  #13  
Old 26th January 2015, 19:43
G-CPTN G-CPTN is offline  
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Why blue?

Black would be standard - I don't think I ever saw a blue one.

I can't remember whether military vehicles were other than black (chassis).

Looks good though - but unusual IMO.
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  #14  
Old 26th January 2015, 19:54
mylesdw mylesdw is offline  
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It's a good question and I did think long and hard about it, why blue and not black. Here is my reasoning -
  1. Blue is nicer to work on than black, not so dark underneath
  2. It's the same colour as the cab so less wastage of paint
  3. When the body goes on the chassis will be pretty much completely hidden - current plan is a camper body with side lockers etc.

If the chassis was going to be visible I would have gone for black
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  #15  
Old 26th January 2015, 20:09
coastie coastie is offline  
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It's your wagon, it's your choice!
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  #16  
Old 8th February 2015, 20:22
mylesdw mylesdw is offline  
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Do you by any chance have the torque settings for installing the front and rear spring shackle bolts? I have been collecting the training manuals but I don't have that one yet!

Rear ones looked as if they had been loctited.
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  #17  
Old 8th February 2015, 22:10
G-CPTN G-CPTN is offline  
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MK/MJ (20 inch wheels):-
Spring U-bolt nuts - front 95 lb.ft - rear 140 lb.ft
Hanger and shackle bolts and nuts - front 125 lb.ft - rear 190 lb.ft


I do not know the respective sizes of the bolts, and, as stated, these figures are for the military 4x4 vehicle.
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  #18  
Old 3rd April 2015, 04:50
mylesdw mylesdw is offline  
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Does any one know the right way to remove the two springs that retract the brake shoes? I've done it various times (on cars) over the years but never what you might call elegantly and usually involving bad language and minor injury :-)
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Last edited by mylesdw; 3rd April 2015 at 05:08.
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  #19  
Old 3rd April 2015, 09:33
coachman coachman is offline  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mylesdw View Post
Does any one know the right way to remove the two springs that retract the brake shoes? I've done it various times (on cars) over the years but never what you might call elegantly and usually involving bad language and minor injury :-)
There are proper tools that you can buy to do the job. They are basically a big pair of tongs with hooks that locate in the springs and as you close them they release the tension on the springs allowing you to release them. They can be a bit hit and miss however and as it's not something that you will be doing on a daily basis it might not be worth the expense of buying one. I have seen people make up their own versions using a thin steel rod bent over to form a hook at one end with the other end bent to form a loop. Once the hook is located on the spring, a bar is put through the loop end and used as a lever to pull the spring off.
Hope this makes sense as it's hard to describe something without the aid of a picture.
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  #20  
Old 3rd April 2015, 14:24
G-CPTN G-CPTN is offline  
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There was a tool that was like a lever with a pivotting link attached.

The lever end was 'anchored' against the backplate and the (wire) link hooked around the end of the spring then, using the leverage advantage of the tool the end of the spring was pulled away from the shoe.

The manoeuvre was reversed to fit the springs.

It would be easy to lash-up a tool like this - you just need a sturdy piece of metal for the lever and a suitable length of wire with an eye one end and a hook at the other.
This wire needs to be hardened after shaping.

The eye end of the wire attaches to the lever via a 'stud' or bolt (such that it is free to pivot).

The distance from the end of the lever depends on the size of the brake and the strength of the springs.

I'm sorry that I cannot find a photograph.

This is the nearest that I can find:- http://www.fiskars.eu/var/fiskars_em...rning-Hook.jpg

Last edited by G-CPTN; 3rd April 2015 at 14:29.
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