hi there
 

Hello, I'm new here. Please excuse any lack of punctuation. I live in the woods and am getting to grips, or not. With my daughters tab. I have a 1988 leyland library bus. I don't know what the chassis is based on but it has a cummins engine. I.ll upload a picture when I can get my head round it. Righg now though I needa little advice with the air system. I've had to bleed the clutch lots trying out different types of hoses because nowhere had the right type! Ive got hydraulic hose now but I don't yet know if Itll drive because air is leaking from under the throttle pedal. There is a rubber boot here that has slightly swollen with dot fluid. Is this all that 'was' holding the air? Or is it a piston type set up and somethings gone within it? I know it held just enough air before this boot swelled anyway, I do need to move before i can really start playing with things, forestry comission have left us alone for 5 months but now we need to go. Can anyone help me please? Thanks. Kate

Welcome to Truck and Bus Forum.

I'm not familiar with Leylands - there are others on here that are, so I'll leave it them to reply.

Does yours look anything like any of these?

http://www.travellerhomes.co.uk/?p=12205

Ha ha, f113 sef, that's the one! :-D except its aaaallll green now & looks lovely, great detective work! :cool:

That's nothing!! Just wait until he is serious. Welcome to the forum, sure some one will be along soon (like buses nothing then two or three will arrive together)
Do we call you ''oh fer...now what!??'' or just 'now what'?

Hello Kate and welcome to the forum, the lads on here will sort out what you need to know.

Not sure if you are saying that your only problem is with bleeding the clutch ? But if it is try reverse bleeding, to do this clean out a pump action oil can and fill it with the hydraulic fluid that you are using to bleed the clutch with. Next connect a piece of hose that will be a tight fit over the spout of the oil can and the bleed nipple of the clutch slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw and take the top off the reservoir and pump away with the lever on the oil can, this forces any air out of the system, when you have a good clear flow of fluid without any bubbles in the reservoir close the bleed nipple and try clutch, you might have to do this a couple of times to clear any air from the system. Hope this makes sense, but it's easy do but hard to explain, one last thing don't let the oil can run out of fluid or you will have to start all over again.

If the clutch is air-assisted, I believe you should bleed the hydraulics without any air assist?

If there is air leaking from the throttle pedal area, might it be from the brake valve?

Cheers everyone, it's Kate.. had the air all up before we bled the clutch & nothing after, at all, It's all just hissing out under the pedal, It prob wasn't 100% leak proof but better than the tk we used to have, when I've got somewhere more permanent I look forward to big mechanics but for now I just want to move.. could it be as simple as this rubber bung & as difficult as locating a new 1 before I'm on my way or is it likely to be a little more serious

From (my) memory, as I have suggested above, you need to exhaust the air before you bleed the hydraulics (if you are doing it the standard way. Better to follow the reverse-bleeding as suggested by coachman (if you can lay your hands on an oil-can).